How to Paint a Room

Painting a room yourself can save £200–£500 compared to hiring a decorator. But done wrong, it looks worse than before. This guide covers everything from preparation to the final coat — the same process professional decorators use.

In This Guide

What You'll NeedStep 1 — Prepare the RoomStep 2 — Protect Edges and SurfacesStep 3 — Apply Primer if NeededStep 4 — Paint the Ceiling FirstStep 5 — Cut In the Walls

What You'll Need

Emulsion paint for walls and ceiling, eggshell or satinwood for woodwork, a 9-inch roller with medium pile sleeve, a 2-inch angled brush for cutting in, a paint tray, masking tape, dust sheets, sandpaper (120 grit), sugar soap, filler and filling knife, and a stepladder.

Step 1 — Prepare the Room

Remove or cover furniture with dust sheets. Take down pictures and curtains. Fill any holes or cracks with filler, allow to dry, and sand smooth. Wipe walls down with sugar soap solution to remove grease and dirt — this step is critical for paint adhesion. Allow to dry fully.

Step 2 — Protect Edges and Surfaces

Apply masking tape along the top of skirting boards, around window frames and door frames, and along the ceiling line if you're painting a different colour ceiling. Press the tape down firmly to prevent bleed.

Step 3 — Apply Primer if Needed

New plaster, bare wood, or previously dark walls need a primer or mist coat (emulsion diluted 10% with water for new plaster). Skip this step and your top coat will look patchy.

Step 4 — Paint the Ceiling First

Always paint ceiling before walls. Use a brush to cut in around the edges 2–3 inches, then roll the ceiling in a consistent pattern. Work in sections, maintaining a wet edge to avoid lap marks.

Step 5 — Cut In the Walls

Using your angled brush, paint a neat edge (called cutting in) where the wall meets the ceiling, corners, skirting boards, and around any obstacles. Take your time here — this is what separates a professional finish from an amateur one.

Step 6 — Roll the Walls

Load your roller evenly and apply paint in a W or M pattern to spread it, then fill in with parallel strokes. Work from top to bottom in sections, always maintaining a wet edge. Apply two coats, allowing 2–4 hours drying time between coats.

Step 7 — Paint the Woodwork Last

Paint skirting boards, door frames, and window frames last using eggshell or satinwood. Sand lightly between coats. Use a small brush for precise edges.

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Frequently Asked Questions

For a standard 12x12ft room, you'll need approximately 2.5 litres per coat for the walls and 1 litre for the ceiling. Most emulsion covers about 12–14 square metres per litre. Always buy slightly more than you calculate.
Matt emulsion is the most popular choice for living rooms as it hides imperfections and gives a clean finish. Vinyl matt is more washable. Avoid silk for walls as it highlights every bump and imperfection.
A DIYer typically takes a full day (6–8 hours) to prepare and paint a standard bedroom with two coats. A professional decorator can do the same in 4–6 hours due to experience and better tools.
You don't need to sand entire walls, but you should sand any filled areas until flush, smooth any rough patches, and lightly sand previously painted gloss surfaces before applying a new coat.
Most emulsion paints are recoatable after 2–4 hours. Check the tin. However, waiting longer (overnight) between coats often gives a better result as the first coat is fully dry and hard.

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